France – September 2024

After a few days exploring Paris we hired bikes and cycled the Loire Valley for 10 days from Orleans to Nantes.We then cycled the Canal de Garonne and Canal di Midi from Bordeaux to Sete. We will have a few days in between the two cycle trips to rest our bums and see the sights around Bordeaux.

Paris August 26th – 30th

How wonderful to be back in Paris! The last time Helle was in Paris was 1989!

Our street we stayed on for a few days in Paris – 17th Arrondisement
View form our apartment

We rented bikes from the “Velib” network – it’s the public bike system with 19000 bikes and around 1500 docking stations in greater Paris – bloody awesome!

Off we went exploring – no fixed route
Montmatre
I had VIP protection
Helle finding solice
Olympics fanfare
Love the architecture
And all the lovely gardens
Cruising the Seine
Paris is a wonderful city to cycle

It’s the start of the Para Olympics so it’s busy in the middle of town waiting for the opening ceremony tonight. We caught the lighting of the flame in the Champs Elysees

The lighting of the torch
Flame lit – this lady wouldn’t let me go any closer
Yes – you have to see it!
Up close and personal

We found a few quiet streets in central Paris
Jarden de Luxembourg
Latin Quarter
A lock on Canal St Martin
Place de Bastille
Cycling along the Seine
Helle found some radishes
Arc de Triomphe
Somewhere in Paris
Jardin de Plantes
On the Seine again

We loved our 3 days in Paris. We cycled everywhere. It’s the only way, in my opinion, to really get an appreciation of Paris in a short time. It was bloody awesome!

The city is magnifique
Our staircase in our apartment in Paris

Loire Valley August 30th – September 9th

We hired bikes in Orleans and are cycling the Loire for 10 days. We arrived from NZ with our 3 pannier bags each ready to go. 

From Paris we bussed a couple of hours to Orleans. We caught the bus from Saint Germain en Laye which had a stunning chateau and garden .

St Germain Chateau
Orleans

Plus some top little streets to explore

Some quirky little buildings

We stayed in a cool place that had a central courtyard with lots of character.

Enjoying a beer in our courtyard

Next day we were ready to hit the Loire Valley.

We picked up our bikes, loaded up and we were ready to hit the road

Orleans to Beaugency – 30 kms

Our first day was very easy and that was the plan. We aren’t here to break any records but to take it slowly and enjoy the small historic towns on the way and the lovely countryside. We were not disappointed!

Some grand estates along the way
Someone fly fishing

We rode through the small medieval village of Meung-sur-Loire

The castle
A vintage car rally
Boulangerie – we stopped to get some lunch
Lunch on the trial

Beaugency – our first overnight stop on the Loire. What a charming place.

Outside our AirBnB
Magical streets everywhere
Enjoying cheese and crackers and a bit of local plonk
Tower de Cesar
Breaky with our lovely French hostess

Beaugency to Blois – 52 kms

Cycling to Chateau de Chambord
Chambord – built by King Francis 11 in 15th Century
Another smaller estate en route
Arriving in Blois
A cool lane in Blois
Blois steps – they change them every year
Our rustic courtyard and apartment in Blois
Looking across the Loire back to Blois

Blois to Amboise – 52 kms

Today was the toughest cycle day as we encountered a few hills!

We hit wine country
A lovely little village en route
Chateau Charmont – sur – Loire
I love a good drawbridge
Lots of sunflowers – almost past their best

Amboise to Villandry – 50 kms

Our Amboise digs – top floor
On the trail
Tours Cathedral – Helle not that excited
Savonnieres – a lovely village we passed through
Our B&B in Villandry
Petit Dejuener

Chateau de Villandry was awesome. Built in the 16th century and then restored a number of times . The gardens were inspiring.

View from inside the Chateau
Sculptured masterpiece
Villandry to Chinon – 40 kms
Another chateau en route
Vineyard territory near Chinon
We visited this vineyard and did some wine tasting
We grabbed a bottle to drink in Chinon – very drinkable!
Chinon – the best town yet
Some top streets to wander from medieval times
Views from Chinon castle were spectacular
In 1204 the French took the castle from the English in a hard fought battle
Looking back to Chinon

Chinon to Saumar – 40 kms

Great ride today along the Vienne River, through lovely forest, more vineyards and some quaint villages.

Candes – Saint – Martin
Beautiful forest ride
Cruising into grotto country
Lots of caves in the cliffs
Country Estate
A little wine tasting at the end of the day
View from our balcony in Saumar

6 days riding so far. It is just fantastic. The countryside is so peaceful and many of the villages seem like ghost towns. The history, the beauty of each chateau and just meandering down the Loire is awesome.

We have stayed in some fantastic little historic  B&B’s and the delicious pastries and croissants from the boulangeries are our staple picnic lunch!

Saumar to La Bahalle – 40 kms

Saumar old town – buying lunch

Saumar from a distance
A lovely home en route
Lunch stop
Horse country
Our B&B in La Bahalle

La Bahalle to Rochefort sur Loire – 40 kms

Lovely ride to Angers and then along the Maine River.

Angers castle
Along the Maine river
Behuard

Rochefort – sur – Loire to Ancensis – 55 kms

Our biggest day cycling so far. Our place in Rochefort was right on the river.

View having a cuppa
Loire River in all its glory
Savionneres Sunday market
A lovely place on the Loire

Ascensis to Nantes – 40 kms

Home stretch! Last day on our Loire Valley cycle.

Oudon Castle
We found some sheep!
Love the little country lanes
Plus the interesting homes on the way
Our last stop – Nantes
Our top little 17th century cottage for the night

What a fabulous 9 days cycling. The countryside, river, medieval towns, chateaux, vineyards and the wonderful places we stayed. We have found the French to be so friendly and respectful to cyclists.

Tomorrow we bus to Bordeaux and have a few days exploring the region. Then we hit the saddle again from Bordeaux to the Mediterranean.

Bordeaux region – Sept 10th – 15th

We have hired a car and hit the road to find some villages and vineyards around Bordeaux.

Bloody wet today! Saint Emilion
Lovely historic town around 1 hour from Bordeaux
Interesting art
View from our window having lunch
The old town
Castillonnes – cute street where we stayed
Our living room – best accommodation yet

A big day today – visiting a number of medieval towns around the Bordeaux and Dordogne area.

Market day in Eymet
Helle shopped and I admired the old buildings
Belve
A spot of lunch looking over the Dordognes
Our favourite village – Beynac et Cazenac
Awesome castle and vistas
Littel narrow cobblestone streets
Our cool little rental – great for negotiating small streets
Domme – just another medieval town
Sarlat – this is our homebase for a night

Sarlat – what a wonderful town. It is one of the few towns that has escaped fire and war!

Duck is the speciality
The cone shaped building use to be the morgue
Sarlat is famous for its ducks

We headed North to the Dordoyne region – lovely small villages and forest. Also many caves discovered from prehistoric times – over 20,000 years ago

Lascaux
Saint Leon Sur Vezere
Every town has a church

We loved our stay in Castillonnes so much we booked another night.

From our balcony in Castillonnes
Bergerac – the old town
Chateau Monbazillic
Wine tasting at the Chateau – 2 different Semillon vintages.
Too sweet for me
Monpazier Bastille – 15th Century
Enjoying a drink outside our B & B in Monpazier

Our final destination before hitting the bikes again – Bordeaux. It was crazy busy in town.

We did find an empty street
An impressive statue and buildings

Cycling Bordeaux to Sete – Sept 15 – 28th

Bordeaux to Saint Brice – 50 kms

We cycled the Roger Lapebie cycle path. Roger won the Tour de France in 1937 and the path is the old rail route. Absolutely lovely.

Beautiful forest path
I love a good tunnel

Saint Brice to Couthures Sur Garonne

50 kms

Our cottage in saint Brice
Sauveterre de Guyenne – a town ready for battle
Blood on the streets

 

We escaped to the country
An interesting relic
We hit the Canal de Garonne
Absolutely beautiful
Lock at Meilhan sur Garonne
Wine o’clock at Couthures sur Garonne B&B

Couthures Sur Garonne to St Laurent 55kms

Lovely sunrise from our room
Couthures – the ropes from the old bridge
Back on the canal
Lovely bridge reflection
Damazan – cool little town
The canal is just magic
The cycleway is so peaceful and flat!

St Laurent to Valence D’Agen – 55 kms

Lots of apple orchards today and also some kiwifruit!

Kiwifruit
Valence D’Agen town square

Valence D’Agen to Montech – 40 kms

Ready foe another days ride
Valence water source back in the day
Mossiac Abbey – 11th Century
Mossiac – looking towards the Abbey
Lunch in Castelsarrisin
Canal de Garonne built over the Garonne river

We stayed on a boat on the Canal in Montech.

wine o,clock
Top spot

Montech to Toulouse – 45 kms

Ready to go after a night on the boat
Toulouse was wet! Place de Capitole
Basilica of Saint Sermin
We braved to rain to check out Toulouse

Toulouse to Castelnaudary- 65 kms

Our biggest day yet on the bikes.

Lots of houseboats as we left Toulouse
Time for a beer
Lots of locks

We reached Castelnaudary which is where my  nephew Eamon did his French Foreign Legion training! A somewhat unremarkable town apart from that.

Castelnaudary bridge
Perhaps prisoners were kept in this tower

Castelnaudary to Carcassonne – 40 kms

Leaving Castelnaudary
Lovely ride to Carcassonne
View form our apartment in Carcassonne
Loch Ness of Carcassonne

Initially we didn’t think much of Carcassonne – but as we explored it more the town grew on us!

Bibliotheque
Some local French cuisine
“The castle”
The front gate
I loved this building
The castle at night

Carcassonne to Roubia – 50kms

Top bridge
The small village of Roubia

Roubia to Beziers – 60 kms

Small country estate enroute
Le Somail – Bridge across the canal
Loved this building and the shutters

Beziers – what a fantastic town. Certainly the best to explore on Canal du Midi

A mighty fine Cathedral as you enter town
I loved all the architecture
Cathedral up close
The buildings were very grand

Beziers to Agde – 25 kms

Setting off from Beziers
We explored a bit more before we set off
Finally time to hit the road and leave Beziers
Our lovely accommodation in Agde

Agde to Sete – 30 kms

Our final stage was a short one.

Almost at the end of the canal
Flamingos
We hit the Mediterranean
Cycling the last km in Sete!

It was great fun. The most beautiful part was definitely the Garonne – from Bordeaux to Agen.

We had a wonderful month in France. The best cycling was in the Loire Valley – it had glorious villages and towns, magnificent chateaux and of course vineyards to taste along the way!