Turkey 2024

Our first trip as “retirees”!!

We are going back to Turkey for the first time in 35 years!

Helle and I on the Turkish Coast 1989
Ephesus 1989

Turkey – August 2024

Our planned trip will cover many of the key hotspots on the coast and finishing in Cappadocia. Below is our planned itinerary starting and finishing in Istanbul. We will have a couple of  internal flights – Istanbul to Izmir and then Neveshir back to Istanbul. Our days of long bus trips are over! We are hiring a  car in Izmir and cruising Turkey for about 3 weeks.

Lar’s wife Derya is Turkish/Kiwi. Her Mum is from NZ and her Dad Turkish. They live in Ayvalik so looking forward to meeting her family. Lars and Mattias will both be in Ayvalik so first time in a couple of years we will all be together!

Istanbul  August 2nd – 5th

What a buzz to be back in Istanbul for the first time  since 1986! The place is crazy busy. But it has a great vibe. We have spent a couple of days packing in as many sights as possible. It’s 30 degrees plus but is okay. Not too hot as it’s a dry heat.

Spot Helle

Mattias joined us from Seattle. Lars and Derya are coming over from Bath in a couple of days.

A street in our neighbourhood where we stayed. At night it would be teeming with people
Our digs are on this top little street just off Taksim Square
The famous Taksim Square
View from the balcony of our apartment
A little love goes a long way
Emirgan Park – not on the tourist route so it was very peaceful
We took a trip on the Bosphorus. It looked remarkably clean.
Rumelli Fort – closed unfortunately for renovations.
Ortakoy Mosque – there are only 4800 mosques in Istanbul

Balat – a Greek influenced neighborhood – very cool houses and small cobblestone lanes

A steep climb

Sultanhamet – the home of the Blue Mosque and Sofia Hagia Mosque. The area was absolutely chocker with tourists. A must to see but I was pleased to leave.

The blue mosque in all its glory
Outside the famous spice market
Lots of yummy stuff in the market
Turkish coffee shop
Lunch and a rest after the Sultanhamet rat race
Top staircase and mosiac wall
The local Efes brew after a hard day sightseeing

We loved our  couple of days in Istanbul. It was easy to get around and the locals were amazingly helpful and friendly. Cats seemed to rule in Istanbul

Having a snooze on the books

“Can I check the menu please”
Window Display

Ayvalik August 5th – 10th

What a lovely town on the Aegean Sea. Deyra’s parents live in the old part of Ayvalik. Full of Greek stone houses and narrow cobblestone streets.

Derya’s parents home – Ramazan and Janet
Our place is just off this street
Our AirBnB is on this cool little alleyway

There was a restaurant for 2 on the patio behind our balcony. Very expensive and exclusive – so we didn’t go.

Diners enjoying the “exclusive” restaurant for 2
View from our old Greek house

We hired a boat and went out into the Aegean Sea for a day.

Cracker day for it
The water was so clear and warm

We drove to the old town of Bergama. I spotted a couple of fine looking Turkish gentlemen.

Chilling on the streets
Traditional Turkish breakfast – I prefer bacon and eggs

The Ancient City of Permagon

Above Bergama sits Permagon – built in 6th Century BC!

They built fabulous columns back in the day
The amphitheatre that held 10000
How they got the granite up the hill must have been quite a feat
The retaining wall – no wonder it lasted 2500 years

Ayvalik is a wonderful town to just beat the feet and explore.

The little girl was camera shy but not the boy
Waiting for dinner as the sun set over Ayvalik
Ayvalik waterfront
35 degree heat

The angels on Cunda Island – just over the water from Ayvalik
Balcony view from Derya’s parents home
Ramazan cooked us up a feast
Bag maker on the steps of her home
Caramel the kitten – there are cats galore on the streets in Turkey

We had a wonderful few days in Ayvalik. Janet and Ramazan where absolutely lovely and the hospitality was laid on thick! It was fantastic the two families were together for the first time.

Eating in Turkey is a very enjoyable experience
The many delicious dishes are on display in the fridge to choose from

Cesme – August 10th – 12th

We hit the road down the coast to a Turkish tourist town of Cesme.

Our small boutique hotel
It only had 5 rooms – very cute
Dalyan (next to Cesme) – A playground for the rich
There are some serious private boats
Local fishing port as well
Cesme fort and town square
A quiet back street in Cesme
Turks playing Okey in the streets
Our rental for the road trip

We drove from Cesme to the ancient city of Ephesus.  I had  visited twice before so wasn’t that keen to see it again but Helle couldn’t remember it – so off we went. 40 euros entrance fee each!Bit of a rip off I think but the masses visit- for Turks it cost about 2 euros.

I took a similar photo 35 years ago
The main drag – 2500 years ago
The very public loos
The main amphitheatre

Kusadasi August 12th

Kusadasi is absolutely full of English and Irish holiday makers.

We found a top spot for a bite and a beer
Great breaky where we stayed

Datca Peninsula  August 13th – 15th

We drove 4 1/2 hours South to a lovely small Turkish resort town Ovabuku Beach.

This place is more our style than Kusadasi! Small, boutique B & Bs with a very laid back and chilled vibe.

Datca Peninsula is hilly with some great views of the sea on both sides.

A few big yachts parked up
Ovabuku Beach in the distance
Our beach lounges at or “suits” accommodation
Ovabuku Beach
Top meal by the beach
The village by the sea where we stayed
Almond picking season

We took a drive to the end of Datca Peninsula. It was absolutely stunning.

Beautiful clear water down the Peninsula
Stunning vistas – Rhodes Island in the distance
Ancient city of Knidnos across the water
A fancy boat parked outside the Ancient City
Bay after bay of clear blue water

Eski Datca – old town is very quaint

Lovely old stone houses everywhere
Just wander and enjoy
3 cats loving the sunshine

Dalyan August 15th

We drove about 3 hours to the lovely riverside town – Dalyan. Lots of English tourists come over to enjoy the sun, sea and historic sites.

Ancient tombs in the cliffs dating back to 4th Century
Its an amazing site

We took a row boat across the river to visit Kaunos Ancient City.

Yes more ruins – from 4th Century
We love strolling ancient cities

Iztuzu Beach – not a bad beach near Dalyan. The leatherback turtles lay their eggs on the beach. Not that we saw any apart from in the turtle rehab centre where the majority of turtles have been caught in fishing nets.

Iztuzu Beach

Oludeniz August 16th – 18th

We drove about 80 kms from Dalyan to Oludeniz – it took about 3 hours! It was crazy busy driving into Oludeniz. It is a holiday hotspot for both Turks and foreigners.

Sun setting over the beach
Very touristy – themed boats
Paragliding is very popular – I couldn’t convince Helle to have a go
We took the local ferry to Butterfly Valley
Butterfly Valley in the distance – beautiful bay
We managed our only bit of lounging on the beach in Turkey
The water was clear and warm
Heading back to Oludeniz
Thumbs up from the captain
Drinks on Oludeniz Beach

Our staple diet in Turkey was shish chicken and kofte balls – very tasty. I tried lamb kebabs once but the lamb just didn’t cut it. Too tough.

View from our balcony – we always tried to book a room with a balcony and a place with a pool

Kalkan August 18th – 21st

From Oludeniz we drove to Kalkan via the Saklikent Gorge – busy but awesome. It is the deepest canyon in Turkey.

Helle watching her footing
We walked ab out 1 km into the canyon

We thought we had booked a place in Kas but actually it was Kalkan – about 30 kms away from Kas! But we discovered it is a quaint  upmarket small coastal village for tourists – not normally our style but it was a great spot.

The small harbour of Kalkan

We drove to Kas to check it out. Great drive up the coast.

Beautiful clear water
The entrance to Kas harbour
A cute little street
We strolled the old part of Kas
We had a dip here – it was hot

Back in Kalkan, where we were staying, the small streets were great to just wander and explore.

Kalkan was a bit of a hidden gem

From Kalkan we took a drive to a UNESCO heritage site – Xanthos.

It was nearly empty
This view probably hasn’t changed in 2500 years
View of Kalkan from our hotel rooftop restaurant

Side August 21st – 23rd

We drove to Side , another coastal town around 300 kms from Kas. It took about 5  hours as it is slow going in Turkey. The roads are okay but are hilly and windy. Driving is interesting to say the least as Turks come out from seemingly no where and don’t indicate!

Lovely little bays everywhere
Another Ancient City enroute – Myra in Demre
Amphitheatres seem to last the test of time
Yummy Turkish tucker – Helle was over being photographed

Side is an interesting place. The town has been built within the ancient city – so you just wander about and see the ruins, some of which are under glass that you can walk over and view the ruins below.

The old with the new
The revered man in Turkey
Ruins galore throughout Side

Just meander through the streets of Side and you will see ruins everywhere. It is quite cool.

Turkish haircut – waxed ears all part of the service

Cappadocia August 23rd – 26th

After leaving Side, 6 hours later we drove into Goreme Cappadocia. I was last here in 1986! There were no hot air balloons back then.

Sunrise from our hotel balcony
“Love Valley” – I can’t understand why
Fairy chimneys were home some centuries ago
Its an awesome area to explore
The winery
Standing proud
A local back from the market

The whole region around Goreme is fascinating- fairy chimneys everywhere and even an underground Christian city in Derinkuyu. They went underground when the enemy were on attack – they built it big enough to house livestock and thousands of people.

The city was 85m deep and had several levels
Great place to play hide and seek
The landscape is breathtaking
So many places to explore
Remnants of Christianity

Sadly our trip had to come to an end.

Our home for 3 nights in Goreme

We flew to Paris and late in the afternoon we arrived in our apartment in 17th Arrondisement.

Our street for 4 nights in Paris – what a contrast to Turkey just a few hours by air away

Our time in Turkey

What a fantastic start to our trip. We loved our few weeks – the craziness of Istanbul, the quaint town of Ayvalik and the wonderful  time we shared with Lars and Mattias as well as Derya and her Mum and Dad. Janet and Ramazan were superb hosts!

The history and Ancient Cities in Turkey are unbelievable. We just loved to stroll around them and get a sense of how people lived 2500 years ago.

The coast of Turkey has so many great spots to enjoy,  swim and taste the lovely delicious Turkish cuisine. Yes it’s crowded and no longer ” undiscovered” but the water is amazingly clear and blue.

Then to finish off in Cappadocia- a magical wonderland of fairy chimneys and  seeing how ancient civilizations used the landscape to build homes and live their lives!